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Flash syncing with RB67...

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Post by Guest Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:12 am

I guess this is more directed towards Mr Crowell (since you mentioned that you owned one in the past?), but anyone can chime in with info if they have it.

Basically, from everything I've read I should be setting the lenses to X mode (there's an X and an M mode on the lenses), but when I do this and shoot at a slower shutter speed where I can start do hear the opening and closing of the shutter separately (say 1/15 or slower), I also notice the flash firing twice (seemingly at the beginning and ending of the exposure?). Using M mode only fires the flash once, which I would assume is at the beginning of the exposure, which I also assume would be the right time for it to be firing.

Does this seem weird?

Oh also, I'm setting the flashes off with Pocket Wizards, though I don't think it should matter.

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Post by crowellphotographs Tue Aug 26, 2008 9:47 am

The double flash on X does seem weird. Though I've only used the camera with a Speedotron 2405 kit, or a profoto monolight, I've never encountered that.

That said.... NEVER SHOOT ON M!!!!!!!! NEVER SHOOT ON M!!!!!!

Sorry to repeat myself but from now on, that should be the first thing you check before shooting.
M is for Magnesium flash, X is for Xenon.
Magnesium flashes had a delay from when current was introduced until the flash fired. Using M will give you a blank roll every time because the camera delays the shutter release to compensate. I'm not sure how this will sync up on slow shutter speeds as this was primarily a studio camera for me.(I don't know if the shutter ever left 1/60) Even then, you're taking a gamble on having your light in the shot. Maybe at such slower shutter speeds it may sync up, but I'm not sure at what point.
It would be something that you may want to play with. Does it happen with all of your lenses?


As for the double flash, Hmm. Sounds pretty serious. You obviously wouldn't want tracers on your motion shots.
Do you have any sync cord flashes? I'm thinking maybe you should test it out without the Wiz. Though I don't see how that would affect things.


As a side note with the RB67. I would suggest finding a grip for that beast. Maybe you're happy preciously holding a cinderblock, but I do wonder how that will go for you in the field.
Also, I got my stuff in one package and didn't really do much lens purchasing or trading. I have heard that there are differences with mamiya lenses depending on where they are manufactured. Some are supposed to be high contrast others low, all within the same lens type. I can't really vouch for this, it's only something I've heard conversationally.
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Post by Guest Wed Aug 27, 2008 12:07 am

Interesting.

I've actually narrowed it down to being a Pocket Wizard thing now Sad Like you said though, I can't see how that would affect things at all, but apparently...

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Post by crowellphotographs Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:30 am

As sad as it is, still better to be the accessory than the camera. Still lame though.
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Post by akaishuu Fri Sep 24, 2010 2:32 pm

First off... Nando nailed it when he mentioned "viewing distance". No one is going to look at a print bigger than 11x14 any closer than a foot or two away. (well, photographers might)
If it's going to be a large print hung in a large room with something keeping the viewer from going right up to the print,(couch, chair, hung over fireplace...) you might be fine with going bigger. Those massive billboards in cities have golfball sized pixels showing.
That said, if you're entering it in a contest, that may be a different story.
I think that Nando's solution about having crops printed would definitely give you a good idea of how messy the image might look up close.


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